Just
some thoughts on our passage to the Bahamas, what we did right and
what we did wrong.
The city
marina in Ft Pierce is difficult to get in and out of except at slack
tide. Since the time we wanted to leave Ft Pierce did not correspond
with a slack tide we left the marina a day early and anchored out for
the night. That also allowed us to get the boat setup for cruising,
instead of being set up to be a house. To do that we took the dingy
off the davits and lifted onto the forward deck, we stowed anything
that could fall off a counter, we got out our life vests and tethers
and we installed our jacklines. Jacklines are lines that run the
length of the boat to which you can attach a tether that is then
connected to your life vest/harness. This helps prevent you from
falling overboard in rough seas or if you do manage to get overboard,
keeps you attached to the vessel. We also bought ice before we left
and filled a cooler with drinks, water and food. We kept that in the
cockpit, so we wouldn't have to go down below as much.
We
created a float plan before leaving and shared that plan with family.
We let them know our planned route with waypoints and our expected
arrival time. We set up a Spot device so that we could be tracked the
whole way. The Spot turned out to be both good and bad, but I'll
explain later. We watched the weather forecasts very closely in the
days before we left. We relied on just general weather forecasts from
Accuweather, plus NOAA marine forecasts and Passageweather to pick a
good time to cross. The Gulf Stream is the largest river in the world
and should only be crossed in good weather, ships have been lost by
being out there in the wrong conditions and we're no ship.
Our
original plan was to sail down to Palm Beach and wait there for a
good time to cross. The weather forecast looked good for a Tuesday
night crossing. People may wonder why cross at night? You always want
to arrive at your destination during daylight hours. Entering a new
harbor is tricky and entering a new harbor at night is just plain
stupid and while I may be a lot of things, stupid isn't one of them.
So, arriving during the day often means sailing at night. Anyway,
weather forecasts change and the time for our crossing changed with
the forecasts. We ended up with two choices. One was to sail straight
through from Ft Pierce to the Bahamas, crossing Sunday night. The
other other was to stop in Palm Beach for two days and cross on
Tuesday night. Sunday night the wind in the Gulf Stream would be
directly on our nose and the waves would be the same direction. That
meant all night pounding into the wind and waves. Tuesday night the
winds were forecast to be out of the south, so we could at least
motor sail during the cross and the waves would be on our beam
(perpendicular to our path). Both nights the wind would be light and
the waves small. Tuesday would sounded like it would be much more
comfortable, but the thing that sealed the deal was the chance of
each forecast being correct. We had watched the forecasts change day
to day or even morning to evening. At 12 hours away, we had a lot
more confidence in Sunday night's forecast than in Tuesday nights.
After Tuesday night's window the weather was going to fall apart as
far as the extended forecast showed.
Our
original plan included a stop at Palm Beach and had us getting there
early enough to get anchored before night. When we left to cross we
had planned to leave at 10pm. Since we were going straight through we
took our time getting going on Sunday morning and didn't rush sailing
down the coast. The winds were light so we motor sailed south along
the coast. Our speed varied from 4 knots to 6 knots. There was no
point is going any faster as we didn't want to get to the Bahamas too
early. We reached the Palm Beach inlet around 7:30pm, so we were
still ahead of schedule and in no hurry. About that time our speed
began to drop. At first I didn't pay much attention to it since the
speed had varied all day. Then it dropped some more. I check the
motor rpms, still the same, I checked the wind speed and direction,
still the same. I checked the sails, they were set right. Everything
looked good, but we had certainly slowed down. Still I wasn't
concerned, we were ahead of schedule.
The plan
was from Palm Beach to start to angle out towards the edge of the
Gulf Stream. When we made the float plan the western edge of the Gulf
Stream was 11 miles from the Lake Worth Inlet (Palm Beach), but it
had changed by the time we actually got there. Now it was only 5
miles from the Lake Worth Inlet. That meant that angling out to our
waypoint we would be going into the Gulf Stream and directly against
the current. I still wanted to get farther south before crossing, so
we changed our heading slightly. Instead of going south east we went
due south. That turned out to be the wrong thing to do. The coast
moves slightly west from Palm Beach south and the Gulf Stream stayed
about 5 miles off the coast, so even though we went moving out the
Gulf Stream was moving in. Our speed continued to drop as we moved
south until at one point we were doing 2 knots. While we were not as
far south as we wanted to be we were committed, so we turned east.
Looking
at our track on Spot it is easy to see that the Gulf Stream was
strongest close to the Florida coast. We were moving north almost as
fast as we were moving east. For a while I was worried that we would
end up going north of the Bahamas. Slowly as we crossed the current
slacked off and we were able to move more easterly. Wendy had been
worried about the Gulf Stream, but when I told here we had been in it
for the last couple of hours before we made the turn she stopped
worrying about that.
The
waves and wind were light as we started across and even though they
we right on our nose, it was a comfortable sail. We still had some
things to be concerned about later that night. There is a lot of
traffic in the Gulf Stream, tankers and cruise ships move along at
about 20 knots and wouldn't even know if they ran over a little
sailboat. They really can't turn to avoid you, so you need to avoid
them. We installed an AIS (Automatic Identification System) last
winter. All commercial vessels must have one aboard and recreational
vessels have the option to have one aboard. An AIS transmits a signal
over VHF frequencies that includes the ships name, position, heading
and speed. Our chart plotter plots all of that and determines based
on both boats current speed, position and heading if the two will
meet. It will also tell you the closest the two boats will come to
each other. This was AWESOME at night when we would see ships. We
could check immediately to see how close we would get and if we
needed to change direction. That was a huge weight off our minds. You
can see below what it looked like out there at 2am. We're that little
black boat shaped icon in the middle of the picture.
After
playing real life Frogger most of the night the wind picked up and
the waves grew. We've been in much worse and there was nothing that
was really scary, but it did become uncomfortable. The waves were
steep and we were going straight into them. That caused a lot of
slamming as the front of the boat came off of one wave and ran right
into the side of the next. Water never came over the bow, but it did
spray the whole boat from bow to stern. That lasted about fours hours
starting around 4am when both of us were getting very tired and made
it impossible for either of us to get any sleep.
Upon
reaching the Bahamas we turned south and the islands protected us
from the waves. We had plenty of winds and flat seas. Our speed went
from 4 knots to over 7 knots. The next few hours were the best part
of the trip. The skies were clear, the temperature ideal, the water
was bright blue, we sailed along a seemingly endless beach in nice
flat seas. If sailing was like that all the time, everyone would live
on a sailboat!
We had
very few problems along the way. Our engine ran flawlessly, even when
the boat was pounding we did not have any fuel issues. If you have
dirt in the bottom of the tank the waves will stir it up and clog the
fuel filter. Water in the tank will do the same thing, but no
sludge or water showed up in the filter. We only used about 24
gallons of diesel running the engine for 27 hours. No problems with
sails, no problems with charts, navigation or electronics. The only
problem we had was that occasionally the autopilot would give up and
stop working. Most of the time it was because the wind would shift
too much for the autopilot to compensate. The boat would get too far
off course the the autopilot would just quit.
The
other thing was the Spot device. Like I said before, it was good and
bad. Part of that was my fault. It was great for people tracking us
to be able to see exactly where we were and that we were moving
forward. The problem occurred when the Spot came unplugged. At some
point I saw that it was unplugged and plugged it back in. It has
batteries, so it stayed on the whole time, I checked when I plugged
it back in. What I didn't check was that it was still tracking. It
turns out that it stopped when it came unplugged and I didn't find
out until I talked to someone who had been tracking us. That's the
big gap as we sailed down along Grand Bahama. Knowing that it does
that, I'll check in the future to make sure it is still
transmitting. The sudden disappearance could cause some concern. You
can see the gap in the tracking just before we reach the Bahamas.
All and
all, a good trip. No real problems and we made it safely, if very
tired, to the Bahamas. Life is pretty good sitting in the cockpit
typing on my laptop and enjoying the light breeze and clear water.
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